A riverside stay and seriously memorable meal at the Maltsters Arms, Tuckenhay.
Long ago, maybe 8 or so years back, we were adventuring as we do and came across this pub on the river Dart. We sat on the riverside benches, in less than ideal weather, and in true British style, happily huddled under the umbrella in the mizzle and had a half pint and some nibbles and felt quite content. Wanting to return again, we took a branded beer coaster home so we wouldn’t forget it. The problem was the coaster only had a fish on a unicycle on it and no name. For a few years on and off, I’d peek at the coaster in my random food adventure collection, and Google it, but with no luck.
On another far brighter day, we were meandering on a road trip again, and passed a very familiar part of the river Dart, and low and behold what came into sight was a pub bearing the fish on the unicycle! It was The Maltsters Arms, in Tuckenhay, literally ‘tucked away’ just off the main route from Totnes. We stopped in, but alas it was very busy and after a quick half again, we departed having not experienced it fully.
Well 2026 has arrived and 3rd time lucky it seems, I’m finally got to be fully embrace into it’s cosy riverside bosom, with a dinner bed and breakfast visit thanks to an invite from former journalist and restaurant writer, Andy Cooper, who has been part of transforming the offering, as he is now on the serving side of the table as General Manager. [AD – invited]
A bit of history
The Maltsters Arms sits right on Bow Creek, one of the quiet tidal inlets that feed into the River Dart, and that waterside position has shaped its whole identity. In its early days, the creek was a working waterway for the local paper mill and maltings, with boats loading and unloading just yards from the pub.
The pub began life in the 18th century as a riverside inn serving the once‑busy industrial creek. Its most famous chapter came much later, when TV chef Keith Floyd took over in the late ’80s, turning the place into a riotously charming foodie magnet that locals still talk about. Today, the pub has evolved, but Floyd’s legacy lingers in its stories, its setting, and its unmistakable character.
There is a nod to Floyd with one of the dining rooms being named after him, and some memorabilia and cookbooks on show.
Even on a very misty weekend, it has such a sense of place, with nature adding to the story.
A New Chapter
The Maltsters Arms has recently entered a fresh chapter under new owners and experienced hospitality partners, Erin Allgrove and Matt Clark, who have breathed life back into this much‑loved riverside inn. They’ve brought in Dan Morris as head chef, steering the kitchen with a focus on local produce and honest, flavour‑driven cooking that suits the pub’s relaxed, waterside character.
Set right by the river in this postcard pretty South Hams village, the pub and restaurant has recently undergone a refurbishment, and it has been done with the kind of confidence that feels both stylish and wonderfully relaxed. It is warm and beautiful, but not in a way that makes you feel you have to sit up too straight or whisper over your drink.
The restaurant space feels rich and welcoming, with wooden tables and floorboards, deep dark blue paintwork and the most beautiful wallpaper featuring water birds, which feels like such a fitting nod to the riverside setting. The lighting is also spot on, and that really matters. It is warm and flattering, creating atmosphere without making you squint at the menu.
The whole restaurant overlooks the river, with large windows giving you a lovely lookout to the water below. Outside, there is picnic seating right on the river’s edge, ideal for an alfresco drink when the weather behaves (or even when it doesn’t).
What is especially nice is that the pub has clearly kept its local heart. Alongside the dining areas, there is a more casual front room adorned with fairy lights, and seating in the bar, and there is a real sense that this is still very much a place for locals to come in for a drink, a chat and that easy pub atmosphere. For visitors or diners, there is enough distinction to make a meal feel like its own occasion, but without losing that all-important community feel.
What did we eat?
Small plates:
- Lobster and crab bisque, rouille, brioche crouton
- Tempura fried belly of pork, sriracha, wasabi mayo
- Nduja fritter, herb mayonnaise
- Blistered padron peppers, truffle honey, sunflower seeds
Mains:
- Anchovy marinated lamb rump, green and white asparagus, gorgonzola, hazelnut, brown butter, balsamic rosso
- 12 hour braised short rib, coffee and date molasses ketchup, manchego, pickled guindilla peppers
- Sides of fries and Caesar salad
Dessert:
- Basque cheesecake, hazelnut praline, 35% chocolate
The food was absolutely excellent. Not just one or two strong dishes, but the whole experience was lip smacking from start to finish. With a mix of British dishes, and other influences such as Spanish, French or Asian; where a dish had worldly influence, it was kept concise and not confused, very well put together by chef Dan. It was great to have such a solid variety of dishes on offer, it was blimmin’ hard to choose from the menu!
The nduja fritter with herb mayonnaise was beautifully crisp, giving way to a velvety, molten-soft centre with that unmistakable punchy nduja warmth running through it. I absolutely adore Padrón peppers, but the added sweetness from the honey and the crunch from the sunflower seeds just lifted the whole dish.
The crab and lobster bisque, was spot on and took me way back in my food memories. I have not had a bisque in a long time, and this delivered exactly what you want from one – depth, intensity and that unmistakable shellfish flavour. The viscosity was bang on, the flavour savoury and deeply satisfying. Tempura battered pork, felt apart in our mouths, with more delights from the texture of the crunchy coating.
My main of 12-hour braised short rib was gorgeous. The beef was properly pull-apart tender and although it did not look very big at first glance, but on digging in it was actually a very decent portion size. The coffee and date molasses ketchup brought this almost raisin-like tang and depth, which worked beautifully against the richness of the meat. Then the pickled guindilla peppers came in with that sharp, bright cut-through that stopped the dish ever feeling too heavy.
My son’s lamb rump was should have come with onions, but he asked to skip these, and they kindly swapped in green and white asparagus instead, which was much appreciated. This dish was, quite honestly, a cuddle on a plate. The lamb was beautifully tender, and the combination of the cheese, nuts, sauce and that fresh green note just came together in such a rounded, comforting way. It was rich, but balanced. The sort of dish where each mouthful makes you instinctively close your eyes for a second and makes some noises (which my son did…having dined out with me for a decade, this boy knows his stuff)
On the side, we ordered fries and a Caesar salad, and I have to mention the Caesar properly because this was no token side salad limply shoved onto a plate. It arrived like a mountain – generous, layered, full of texture and flavour, with every bit of lettuce coated and topped as it should be. Plenty of cheese, proper Caesar dressing, really good anchovies. It was excellent, and honestly one of the most surprising highlights of the meal.
To finish our meal, we had both spotted the Basque cheesecake on the website sample menu and hoped it would be there on the night, which it was! The cheesecake itself was lovely, but this was the one teeny tiny reflection I felt, that a lighter accompaniment might have worked even better – perhaps a sorbet or a vanilla ice cream, something cooler or lighter to cut through the richness a little more. That said, the fact this was the only point across the entire meal where we could think of any feedback points at all says a lot.
Our Room
We stayed in the Floyd room, and it was such a comfortable, well-considered space.
The low portrait window overlooking the river was probably my favourite feature. There is something about lying in a really good bed with a cup of tea in hand, looking out towards the water before the day gets going, that really feeds the soul. And this was a really good bed, the sort that is supportive and properly comfortable, but still soft enough to feel like it is gently cocooning you.
I also really loved the lighting in the room, which sounds like a small detail but I don’t really like bright lighting. There were brighter main lights when needed, but also built in uplighters in the bed, separate bedside downlighters, and a lamp by the little sofa. It meant the room could feel softly lit and restful in the evening, ideal for reading, chatting or doing a bit of laptop typing (getting some blog notes in early) without feeling accosted by harsh overhead lighting. Then, when you actually needed to see properly to get ready, that option was there too. The chaise longue was well received, both my son and I relaxed on this. I moved it towards the window, to watch the egrets and the cormorants go about their day as the tide came in.
It is also only a very short walk from the room to the pub and restaurant, which adds to that lovely easy-going feel of staying somewhere intimate rather than sprawling.
Breakfast
What a finish to this overnight getaway, perfect poached eggs of the benedict variety – choose your ham, salmon, spinach option and so on. A perfect little cold spread (muesli, yoghurt, cereal), and those views… I grabbed the binoculars on offer to spy on some of the birdlife on the river one last time.
Verdict
The Maltsters Arms is getting it right! It has a story, a beautiful riverside position and interiors that feel stylish without trying too hard.
It was SO QUIET in the rooms, honestly, it felt like we were a world away from our busy lives, yet Totnes is only a short 15 minute drive away if you want some hustle and bustle.
It offers a real pub atmosphere for locals, while still giving diners and overnight guests something that feels special. Most importantly, it backs all of that up with premium food that is thoughtful, exciting, balanced and absolutely delicious.
We noted they were also dog friendly in the dining area, bar and rooms, so that’s great news for paw-rents.
Check out my Instagram reel here from this fabulous gifted stay, I was delighted to be able to experience this place and share it with our readers and followers. I hope to visit again soon to enjoy Spring or Summer weather on the waterside.
The Maltsters Arms, Tuckenhay, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 7EQ
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2026 © Disclosure – all images, unless otherwise stated are copyright of Dining Devon. For some of our visits we are #invited or products are #gifted, and are noted as such. This means we have been given something complimentary in exchange for our views in the hope of us sharing on our socials. This does not affect our opinions which are not seen or pre-approved by venues before we publish or share our experiences
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