It is reassuring that there are still outstanding pubs in Exeter and the surrounding areas. Anyone with an interest in the hospitality industry, much like myself, is deeply concerned about the increasing closure of pubs in the UK. This trend can be attributed to the impact of the economy, the cost of living crisis, and shifts in public habits. The statistics surrounding pub closures evoke a sense of worry, making each visit to a thriving pub a reassuring experience.
In the past, Topsham boasted 42 pubs due to its status as a port town; however, only a handful remain today. Among the surviving pubs, there appears to be a gap in the market for a Pub with a capital ‘P’. The Lord Nelson steps in to this niche, giving diners and those looking for a pub experience in Topsham even more choice. The famous ‘Topsham Ten’ is feeling a bit closer to ten again.
New ownership
You may recall our visit to The Lord Nelson in Topsham three years ago, where left impressed by the food. Since then, a change in ownership has brought about a shift in ethos, focusing more on being a “pub that serves good pub food, cooked well.”
Since the end of March this year, Jayne and Jon took over the pub, bringing their combined 50 years of hospitality experience and successfully navigating through the challenges posed by the cost of living crisis and the tough times in the hospitality industry. This change has been well-received by the community, with the change of direction welcomed vocally by locals; it is still a welcoming destination with lots to offer visitors and residents alike.
The pub offers a robust menu complemented by a large and comfortable dining area where they hosting live music and events. Before delving into further details, their website – https://www.thelordnelsonpubandkitchen.co.uk/ – provides links to their menu and upcoming live music events.
Walking into a vibrant, bustling pub filled with guests having a happy time sets the stage for a good night. Jayne manages the front of the house, warmly welcoming diners and providing attentive and excellent service. Our evening was enhanced by live music from The Bootleggers Tour, featuring some enjoyable sing-along covers. However, the question lingered: would the food live up to the positive reviews on Google and TripAdvisor?
The food
The evening’s menu included:
Black Pudding Fritters £7.00
Halloumi Fries with sweet chilli sauce £7.25
Gammon Steak, Egg and Chips £14.95
The Nelson Column Burger £18.50
As expected, vegan and gluten-free versions were available. with their meat being locally sourced and freshly prepared, The menu offfers a diverse range of flavors to cater to everyone’s taste and budget but still staying true to good pub food.
The Black Pudding Fritters were a revelation, bursting with umami. Crispy battered pieces of Ruby black pudding were served with a mustard mayo. The classic pub dish of halloumi fries was expertly cooked, achieving the perfect balance of crispiness and moisture. The Gammon, Egg, and Chips, a special on the night of our visit, featured peas, epic chips, and a flavorful piece of gammon that stood out in this traditional pub staple.
Then there was the burger. While choosing a burger for a review might be considered unoriginal, the towering stack of meat, cheese, lettuce, and tomato beckoned a test drive. Being an devout follower of all things Burger, it would be rude not to try it. Cutting through revealed a substantial, juicy cluster of meat, with the credit going to the buns for keeping everything enclosed without any interior slippage—a delightful, meaty bundle is exposed with juice and cheese and pulled pork harmoniously combined to create a really glorious burger.
Light lunch menu
During mid-week, The Lord Nelson has a lighter lunches offer on. For a reduced price, you can have a light version of their classic main dishes. This is an offer that I’ve taken advantage of in other pubs, and it’s good to see that there is an option for those with smaller stomachs and/or smaller wallets too.
Sunday roasts
Have a gander at their Sunday menu. If you’re up for a Sunday treat, special occasion just can’t stomach cooking a roast, or need something to soothe the stomach after the night before, The Lord Nelson have you covered! With rump or pork, fish, vegetarian and vegan options available too, it caters for all tastes and diets.
The pub itself is easily accessible, with most of the interior on one level. Their adjacent car park requires visitors to register their car park number at the bar, and non-patrons can also use the car park for a fee.
A visit to The Lord Nelson Pub & Kitchen is definitely recommended for an experience that combines the charm of traditional pub feeling with their robust and delicious menu. Whether it’s the live music, the warm hospitality, a special occasion, or just a swift one, book a table and get yourself down.
Dining Devon 