(AD/ PR Visit) Hotel Du Vin own a number of boutique lifestyle hotels across the UK, 29 to be exact. They are towards the upper end of the spectrum when it comes to hotels in expectations, price and what you get and likewise the restaurants are aimed towards that upper price point ‘Serving classical French dishes with a modern British twist’.

Its been open a few years now and the restaurant has recently had a refurbishment; we were invited as guests to see the newly refitted restaurant and have a good shakedown of their seasonal a la carte menu.

The last time I ate in France was multiple decades ago. So this isn’t going to be a straight-up comparison, this is my view and opinion as someone who has an idea of what a French bistro should be like. The term ‘bistro’ in recent times has grown detached from the original origins, being a modest cafe serving traditional French food. Bistro Du Vin has the food right, but beyond that there is nothing modest about these Bistros.

Where is it? Hotel Du Vin. It used to be, up to 1992, the West of England Eye Hospital. Opened in 1901 in the baroque revival style, designed by Sir Alfred Brumwell Thomas, it was converted into a hotel in 2001 and after a few owners it has been the Hotel Du Vin for a while now. There are small hints as to it’s past in the architecture and design but the restaurant itself pays homage to the River Exe and the Estuary with the bespoke netting adorning the lights, as if catching glowing fish, suspended from the ceiling.  It’s very pretty and a striking sight when you first enter the room.

“The Bistro is now an inviting bolthole where designers have curated a palette of deep, luxurious colours that embody Hotel du Vin’s statement heritage flair. Palettes include sophisticated dark steel hues which gracefully recede like the ocean to meet a natural oasis that unfolds in the shape of wall coverings adorned with lush greenery and trailing plants which extend along the window elevations with picturesque views of the terrace and lawns beyond. With its copper table lamps casting a soft glow, terrazzo style stone tables, bold French couture fabrics and terracotta tones of fresh leather seating, the space pulls on the diner’s nostalgia for the natural world while immersing them in a feeling of being at one with nature while dining.“
HOTEL DU VIN

Just to drive home it’s gallic-ness diners are offered some very interesting items (amongst safer options) such Escargot and Crispy Frog Legs as starters and classic French staples such as Beef bourguignon & Chateaubriand in the mains. The menu is a well balanced affair, catering to a range of palettes and diets, not just the carnivores who have come along for the steak.

Our menu tonight looked like this:

How to describe frogs legs: Like chicken but gamey, sweet and denser. I have always wanted to try frogs legs so this was one off the culinary bucket list. The crispy coating was freshly cooked and delightfully crunchy which made it feel like fried chicken but just that bit different in terms of taste. The fresh, bright sauce had a slight sourness to it which worked really well with the sweetness of the meat. 

If you’re an adventurous eater, I believe HDV is the only place in Exeter that offers this. It’s an unusual delight to have such a novelty on a menu in the city. I would always recommend pushing your boundaries, and this is a delicious way of doing it. I am also prepared to be corrected if anywhere else in Exeter offers frog legs on their menu.

The other starter was, according to the other side of the table, meaty and enjoyable. with the Tiger prawns mostly deshelled and ready to be dipped into the rich aioli – there are other items that are available which are a bit less adventurous thankfully.

The mains were absolutely spot on. The bourguignon was served with a deeply flavourful gravy, beef cheek braised is always good but this was eight hours braised. It melted in the mouth (I hate that expression but that’s what it did); the meat had a consistent flavour and texture throughout, which was mirrored in the deep flavour of the gravy. 

Tori’s fillet steak was expertly cooked, with a rich and flavourful peppercorn sauce, the meat was consistently cooked and done perfectly.

Throughout the meal we went on recommendations as I love to do. We were looked after by Martin who really nailed the recommendations, asking questions and making conversation, given the price point and quality of the food the service was exacting, friendly and attentive overall. 

I’m not a big fan of desserts but as our meal was three courses it would be rude not to. On Martins recommendation I went for the Pot Au Chocolate because, well, chocolate. It was a dense (in a good way), lick-your-spoon from start to finish 

On the other side, it was going to a Black Forest Chocolate Mousse. This rich mousse, surrounded by alcoholic cherries, stationed around the perimeter of the providing a tartness to contrast with the bitterness of the high cocoa chocolate.

Hotel Du Vin gives Exeter’s culinary landscape a gallic diversity which caters for a spectrum of tastes and diets. It has a British twist which creates a fusion of Anglo-French with a varied and exciting menu, along with and extensive wine selection which are matched perfectly with the menu.

Perfect for a lovely treat for a special occasion, a big celebration or romantic meal.

For more information, book a table, opening times and menus head here

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